Day 1 - Lima to San Bartolo (55km) Saturday 23rd July

So, day number one on the road and what a day of mixed emotions. Excitement and freedom to be finally on our bikes.  Although the luxury we've enjoyed over the past few days has been gratefully received, neither of us enjoys the shopping mall scene and its slightly sad to think that such an interesting nation with rich culture aspires to shop at Aldo and Pierre Cardin.  So we can't say we were all that sad to leave the Miraflores region of Lima behind.  Though we were soon dropped down to Earth as we cycled south through the Lima suburbs.  Once out the other side of the cultural and hip Barracosa things turned very real as we passed through slums. Although we were more on edge and alert, I feel so much happier having seen a little of this. It felt wrong eating lunch yesterday whilst staring over the river at the Rimac slums.  Then onto the hard shoulder of the PanAmerican highway, which although not the most pleasant ride, is not as scary as it sounds!
Things of note from today...
1) it's VERY dusty
2) its VERY humid (how these things fit together I don't know!)
3) its cold... Or rather it feels cold... Thermostat says 18 degrees but it feels much more like 12... I guess that will be the humidity!
4) everything looks better at night...i think it hides the unfinished surfaces of most houses... That otherwise look a bit shabby... But are often home to lovely restaurants and shops.
5) the people who guard the town we're staying in (yep barriers to enter and leave), love bikes... they cheered when they saw us ride in
6) busses and traffic are crazy, but will always honk you to let you know they're coming then give you a v wide birth... So far... We like!
7) some hostels are AMAZING! This one has WiFi, overlooks the cliffs (literally) and its only downside is its too clean (stinks of bleach!)
8) we're not yet adjusted to the jet lag (Ant's just fallen asleep whilst talking to me and it's not yet 8.30pm!)
9) that barking back at shouty angry dogs makes them run away
10) San Bartolo is a cool place to stay... Everyone is super friendly  and from our room window we can see the surfers playing with the huge waves... And ate an AMAZING meal... BBQ Fish skewers nom nom nom...possibly some of the best fish I've ever tasted.
So... Its now 8.30 and definitely passes my bed time so I'm signing off.
Love to all at home xxx

From Peru

From Peru

From Peru