Monday, 12 September 2016

Day 25- San Pedro to a salar 20km short of the Argentinian border (Saturday 9th September) - 87km

Today was the day of possibly the most beautiful cycling we've ever done... Oh and Ant went the fastest he's ever been in a bike!
After our very friendly pick up driver dropped us off near the Bolivian border, it was a day full of rolling hills in the middle of Mars-like desert. Our bikes were heavy as they are carrying the supplies and water we need for three days as there's not much between us and Argentina, but we're both ready and raring to go and are stoked to be back on the bike.
After being treated to a gentle morning with the growing stronger every second wind on our backs, a 400m climb into a cross wind going to the highest we've been yet (4850m) took us both a little by surprise. Ant back to his former cycling strength took it in his stride, I quickly burnt my legs out but kept plugging along. Both of us breathing very heavily now trying to make the most of the thin oxygen up here.
Then we got to the top and were treated to the most glorious descent with the most amazing views, and a lake that was far more colourful and beautiful than any we saw on the jeep tour... Oh and did I mention Any broke his speed record... He wants to make sure I record that and keeps reminding me! A whopping 87km/h!! Crazy boy, though I wasn't that far behind!
The rest of the day was a windy but gentle ride alongside the lake, then alongside a salar, occasionally stopping to take shelter and have a bite to eat.
The beautiful cycling came and went and soon we were ready to camp at around 5pm, ever grateful that the clocks went forwards again here so it doesn't get dark until 8pm giving us plenty of cycling time.
Then the day decided to throw some challenges at us. We (Ant) found a beautiful spot to camp overlooking the salar, but soon found the sand was only a few mm deep and beneath it was rock... Rather difficult to peg out a tent! Our stove took an hour and a half to cook our pasta supper, half due to altitude, half due to its own inefficiency. The wind got windier and the cold got colder, and colder. Even Ant was feeling it! So huddled in our tent porch shivering  still trying to cook the pasta at 9pm we were a little perturbed and very hungry!
Eventually the pasta cooked, we ate and were able to snuggle under the three down duvets we'd bought, which were only just enough to protect us from the -10degrees C INSIDE our tent. It was probably a good 5-10 degrees lower outside.
Though I have to say neither of us was quite as cold as we had been in the shelter a few nights ago - testament to Ant's awesome ability to prepare and pick the best kit for the job!
We slept with our milk and cereal so it doesn't freeze for the morning and woke up with the sun and a very civilised 8am (thanks again to the Chilean time zone!).
And when we emerged from our shell we were reminded of just how beautiful this camping spot is and how much we are looking forward to today's cycle and border crossing.

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