For a big city La Paz is actually rather pleasant. It's clearly on its way up in the world, with development everywhere. Other than the first 30km or so, the rest of the journey was a building site, with roads being laid, dug up, and converted from rubble to tarmac for almost 60km, I've not seen road works quite like it! We were actually thankful - if ever there was a day to be ill and need a taxi this was it. Just about bearable in the 4x4 car, this would have been a hideous bone shaker on our bikes.
So we got dropped off at El Alto, near the airport and about 10km outside the city. Our thoughts of a quick 10km downhill cycle whizzing into central La Paz were soon hindered. Initially the side streets were absolutely rammed with bustling markets (Ayamara folk apparently make their living here, out on the streets all day, singing their chants to sell everything from tomatoes to washing powder) and any hope of weaving in and out of the folk crammed shoulder to shoulder was dashed by the millions of minivans (combo taxis) weaving across the road trying to do the same. All in all, this made for an interesting, but petrifying 5km.
And as for the downhill, if it was a ski run it would definitely be classified as a black slope! So steep you had to lean back to stop from going over the handlebars, with giant cobbles and pot holes for moguls.
But once we found our hotel "Rosado" ; we were absolutely delighted. A wonderful room, warm shower, and huge big bed for Ant to relax in. We managed to venture out into the city, found the buzzing a vibrant central square and a cute cafe (cue bacon and avocado sandwiches!!!), ladies in absolutely huge petticoats and a city with a bustling yet somehow relaxed atmosphere.
We were soon collapsed in bed, giving me the chance to realise I didn't feel quite right either.
So we booked the hotel for an extra night, spent A LOT of time sleeping there, only to venture out to book the overnight (no one seems to run one in the day!) bus to Uyuni for a couple of days time (Todo tourismo), and chilled out. Perhaps not making the most of La Paz, but doing enough to get a feel for the place and definitely making the most of the hotel's huge double bed.
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